Yes, I am back from Greece. I’m rested, re-invigorated and ready to take on life once again. This year’s vacation to Greece marks my 20th time visiting the country of my origin.
I visited much of the mainland, from the northernmost province of Macedonia to the southernmost tip of Greece, the peninsula of Neapolis with the islands of Kythera and Ellafonissi just across the strait.
I saw old friends, relatives, made some new friends and acquaintances (thanks to the blog), enjoyed some fantastic food at people’s homes, at some wonderful eateries, shopped at local farmer’s markets, spent some quality down time at many beaches and savoured the warm evenings with the company of friends and a few drinks!
You want inspiration, recipes, vivid memories of Greece…CHECK! I’m back and I’ve got so much to share with all of you (including this fabulously easy and delicious stuffed and grilled calamari recipe).
Allow me to share a brief recap of my travels through Greece. I can’t give everything away but more photos, experiences and food and drink will be shared.
My return from Greece is like a new season…kinda’ like the feeling I got going back to the 1st day of school. Have a wonderful year, I’m enjoy you’ll be reading my regular posts and hopefully you’ll capture the feeling I got from visiting Greece and together we can re-enact the atmosphere, the taste, the aromas and the sights through Greek food and drink.

I started off with some R & R at my parents’ summer home for the first two weeks in Nea Kallikratia, Halkidiki. The schedule…er there was no schedule…easy come and easy go.
I was also able to enjoy the bounty of the sea, like these freshly caught venus clams from the same waters I swim in!
I also headed down to Athens to see the New Acropolis Museum for myself.
When in Athens, don’t forget to also visit the old Museum…another must-see and it’s true what they say…the stones do speak!
A visit to Athens also involved food. I spent a long and leisurely morning gawking at all the fresh meat, produce and seafood available…awesome!

After Athens, I headed south into the Peloponnese peninsula and stayed in the coastal region of Leonidio. I was privileged to stay at the summer retreat home of Elena (Syntages Tis Kardias) and the memories (with lots of laughs) will be forever remembered.
The wonderful thing about Leonidio is that one gets the “sea and mountains” effect…times 10! I stayed in a town called “Pragmatefteis” and the home where I stayed gave me a view of Spetses, Porto Heli and on a clear day as far as the island of Milos. 
The next stop on mini-tour of the Peloponnese was to the Prefecture of Laconia…THIS IS SPARTA!

Statue of Leonidas, located in the city of Sparta
Nearby Sparta is are the Byzantine-era ruins of Mistras. If you’re ever in southern Greece…this is a “must see”…I was truly moved by this visit.
Further on down in Laconia, I visited the Port of Gythio…I find myself always being drawn to water and mostly the sea. I took a stroll along the seaside promenade and stopped at a psarotaverna for some seafood and Tsipouro.
Further on down in Laconia, I headed to the peninsula of Neapolis. This is where I would take in the first of four wine tours on this trip to Greece. Theodoros Vatistas was was gracious host and we toured the winery’s entire operations, ate & drank, had some good laughs and cemented a new friendship.
My next stop on Greek Odyssey was on to Nafpaktos and nearby Messonlonghi. This area is historically very significant in Greek history and I must say, it’s beauty is rivaled only by the rich history of this part of Greece.
Nearby Messolonghi is situated on a large & almost enclosed sea. It’s very shallow and the main source of seafood that is caught is the grey mullet, from which “botarga” or “avgotaraho” is made from the roe of the fish.
During my vacation in Greece, I also did do some cooking. These stuffed peppers (meatless) were one of my faves of the summer. 
Don’t you worry, I also ate meat…had some of the best souvlaki ever in Agios Prodromos, Halkidiki. A town famous for its tender, succulent and tasty souvlakia! 
I also always go back to my parents’ home villages as I still have an aunts cousins here. Amynteon is a sleepy town in the Prefecture of Florina that once was very active commercially and socially but today it largely boasts of producing some of Greece’s finest wines, with the Xinomavro grape varietal.
Just an hour west of Amynteon is the lakeside city of Kastoria. To this day, the fur trade is very important to this city but I’m sure Kastoria also received many tourists…interested in seeing the finely preserved architecture and beautiful lakeside views.
As a foodie and as a Greek, one HAS to explore the city of Thessaloniki and it’s culinary delights.

The White Tower, Thessaloniki
If Athens is the heart of Greece, then (in my opinion)…Thessaloniki is the belly, or…stomach. This city always pushes the envelope, not afraid to try new things without veering from the spectrum of Greek food.
This is just a taste of what I experienced during my vacation in Greece. I have over 3400 photos and there will be plenty of time to share my experiences, point you to some people who are producing some fine Greek wines and spirits, folks who are representing Greek cuisine in it’s best possible light, some tips on where to eat and as always…more delicious recipes that are Greek and soon to appear on your table too!
One dish that I enjoy alot is suffed calamari…yes, yes…squid! Stuffed calamari takes on a whole new “yum-factor” when it’s grilled. The idea for this recipe comes from a recipe I saw in Vefa’s Kitchen. This book is huge, full of recipes from all regions of Greece and surely a “must-have” for those interesting in cooking Greek food.
For this dish, I like using small squid so that they grilled quickly and the filling warms up in the same amount of time. Imagine tender calamari char-grilled and plated on a bed of “latholemono” with parsley, extra-virgin olive oil, mustard, lemon juice.
You cut open the calamari and melted cheese oozes out and a mosaic of red peppers, scallions and fennel is revealed. This recipe is both easy an delicious. Hurry up…there’s still a few weeks left for some outdoor grilling!
Grilled Stuffed Calamari
(serves 2 or makes for one appetizer plate)
1 to 1 1/2 lbs of small calamari, cleaned
1/4 cup of olive oil
1/2 red bell pepper, diced
1/2 cup of fennel (bulb), diced
1/2 cup of Kefalograveria cheese, diced
(Gruyere or Gouda would work fine)
4 scallions, finely chopped
1 tsp. smoked paprika
a pinch of Boukovo (or chilli flakes)
salt and pepper to taste
Parsley Latholemono
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
a squirt of Dijon mustard
3 Tbsp of lemon juice
1 Tbsp. of chopped fresh parsley
salt and pepper to taste
- In a skillet, add your olive oil over medium-high heat and add your scallions, red peppers, and fennel and then reduce to medium and saute for about 5 – 7 minutes or until most of the liquid is gone and the vegetables have softened. Add your smoked paprika and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside and allow to cool.
- Clean your calamari and remove the tentacles and fins aside. You may grill these separately to accompany the stuffed calamari.
- In a small bowl, add all of your latholemono (dressing) ingredients and whisk to incorporate. Adjust with salt and pepper to taste and set aside.
- Pre-heat your gas or charcoal grill. You’re looking for a medium-high heat. Brush the grill surface and ensure it’s lubricated with some kitchen towel that’s been soaked in vegetable oil. Wipe your grill surface with the oil so that nothing sticks.
- Add your diced cheese to the now-cooled calamari filling and mix well. Using a small spoon and your fingers, fill each squid tube to 2/3 of capacity and secure with a toothpick (the calamari will shrink and you don’t want that tasty filling to fall down into your grill).
- Poke the calamari tubes a couple of times with a toothpick (prevents them from popping). Lightly brush your calamari with oil and season with some salt and pepper.
- Grill for about 2 minutes a side and serve on a plate/platter with a bed of the latholemono, some leafy greens and sliced tomatoes as garnish and a wedge of lemon. Serve with a fruity Greek white, like a Papagianni Viognier-Assyrtiko.
If you are not reading this post in a feed reader or at [kalofagas.ca] then the site you are reading is illegally publishing copyrighted material. Contact me at truenorth67 AT gmail DOT COM. All recipes, text and photographs in this post are the original creations & property of the author.
© 2007-2009 Peter Minakis
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